01/16/14

Morris chairs 6, finish…

 

For the stain I did a few samples and we settled on a 2 to 1 ratio of TransFast mission brown and light oak dyes. Most of this finish schedule is one I learned from Carter Rich, the guy who I apprenticed for and taught me 90% of what I know about woodworking (I’ve been doing this for 10 or 12 years and he’s got about 30 years of experience on me, I bet he’s forgotten more than I’ve learned at this point). It’s similar to Jeff Jewett’s but I personally think it’s a little better. I’ve changed Carter’s process slightly to lighten the flake a bit more and to accommodate the sprayer and water based top coats I now use.

One chair stained, one to go.

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The rocker bottom after the staining steps and after linseed oil but before the top-coats…

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Rocker bottom after final coat of Target Coatings EM6000 lacquer.

IMG_0666_optiAll that’s left are the cushions and upholstery.

 

01/15/14

Morris chairs 5, the rockers…

For the rockers I decided to use bent laminations. First I built a form out of scraps at a 42″ radius, then I machined strips of flat-sawn white oak to make up the rockers. Each rocker consists of six 1/8″  layers glued together with urea formaldehyde glue. I probably over-did the clamps but having never used this type of glue before I played it safe.

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For this pic I wiped the sanded rocker with water to highlight the different layers. Once finished the layers will be indistinguishable from one another.

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Next I scribed the legs to the curve of the rocker, attached them and prepped for finishing.

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01/13/14

Morris chairs 3, wedged tenons…

For the tenons to be wedged they need to have slots for the wedges to slide into, so I cut those with a narrow hand saw blade. The holes below the slots are to allow the tenon to spread wide easily. In this case the finished tenons will spread about 1/4″ total.

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Here is the tenon through the mortise with the wedges set loosely in place.

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01/12/14

Morris chairs 2, arm mortises…

In my design the legs are attached to the arms with wedged through-tenons which will be trimmed flush with the arm’s surface. First I cut the tenons on the top of the legs and then proceded to cut the mortises in the arms. The pic below is of the first mortise, started with a forstner bit and trimmed square with a sharp chisel. The beer is for safety.

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This pic is of the through tenon (before being drilled and slotted for wedges) through the squared mortise. At this point the mortise is just a square hole, cut 90° to the to the top of the arm.

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To allow a wedged tenon to spread open (and give the joint it’s strength) the mortise now needs to be bevelled. I used a block of hickory cut at 3° as a guide and pared away the top of the mortise on the two sides I will be spreading the tenon towards.

IMG_0592_optiNow to finish the tenons…